Paris
Aside from hauling 85 pounds of luggage on the Metro… and not seeing anything other than my hotel and the brasserie on the corner… I’m fast falling in love with Paris. From the Metro station guards who helped me find my way to my hotel; to the desk attendant at my hotel and the French version of Friends and the Simpson’s I watched earlier to the very patient and charming server in the brasserie where I had dinner. I’m enchanted…. I can’t wait for tomorrow and what ever it brings…
My dinner… for those foodies around….
I ordered a glass of white wine and the Escalope de veau au citron… and was expecting something like veal picatta (I know.. why expect something italian in france?) what I got surprised and delighted me…. it was a seared scallop of very tender veal in a sauce of crème fraîche and lemon juice with very simply sautéed veggies in olive oil, garlic and herbs de Provence…. I ate it all. And had a very lovely conversation with Hugo… my server. He was very patient with my poor French and let me sit and write for as long as I wanted. After dinner, he served me a liquor that smelled of peaches (i forget what he said it was) but it left me feeling very giddy and light.
(he also explained that the neighborhood where my hotel is full of immigrants and l’etrangers…. which he thinks adds to the charm and I agree.)
I start fresh tomorrow… getting lost in the City of Light.
2/24/09
Crossing the Seine for the first time I paused to look up river at the bridges and something said to keep looking up… I did and caught my first sight of the Eiffel Tower. I got misty… ok.. I cried a bit. It’s still hard for me to believe that I’m here. In the city I have always dreamed of being in and prior to now, only viewed from pictures or written accounts.
For me to say that Paris is beautiful is a gross understatement and does not do this fair city the justice it deserves. (Paris, like any other major city has obviously been hit by economic hardship and homelessness here is as rampant as it is In Chicago or NYC.) As I wandered the streets, I could not help but feel that I was walking through a history book… some of the buildings dating back as far as 1600′s or more. I can’t even say it’s breathtaking… because it’s more than that. I almost want to carry an AED with me (Although that may not be a bad idea as i may need one to counteract all the butter I’ve consumed in two days). Paris has so far exceeded my expectations. This is one city I will for certain return to.
The Musee d’Orsay and the Louvre were stunning, jaw dropping and surprising in so many ways… I had lunch at the Musee d’Orsay (since I missed breakfast) and set off to explore… after getting lost in art history 101, I made my way to the Louvre, where I got the advanced course. When I realized I had been walking almost non stop, and could feel it in my legs I made my way to dinner.
From a remote location (L.A.) my sister (LOVE HER!!!!) has fed me tips and ideas so on her tell I located a restaurant called Entrecote. This place is doing it right…and by right I mean they have NO menu, no choices. They make one thing and they make it OUTSTANDING.
Upon arrival, I was initially shooed out the door because I was 5 minutes early. So I politely waited outside until they turned the lights on signaling it was time. I entered, was seated and asked how I like my steak (in French of course) I indicated au point and requested a glass of house wine. Then…. food just arrived, first a salad then a perfectly cooked steak with french fries…. and this sauce. According to legend, it’s this sauce that has made them famous. it took several tries and some bread sopping… but I think I can duplicate it, if not come close. This was by far the best steak frites I have ever had… nay, in the world.
I had to have dessert… a classic and favorite of mine. Creme Brulee…. I thought I have had good ones in the past, however they all pale in comparison to the rich, creamy, vanilla-y custard topped with crispy burnt sugar. (they use a turbinado sugar, which makes a HUGE difference in the crusting). I took a deep breath, licked my lips and could not have been more sated. I thought my server was asking if I was ready for the check, but clearly I misunderstood and was served a café which I never have after dinner.. they keep me up. But I drank it anyway….. paid my bill and made my way home on the Metro since i was so tired of walking….
It was a good day in Paris…
2/25/09
I quite literally walked from one end of Paris to the other… starting at my hotel in La Bastille making my way across the Seine to Porte de Versailles for Salon D’Agriculture. Along the way I visited the jardins du Museum National D’Histoire Naturelle, an open air market, Jardin du Luxembourg, Cimetiere du Montparnasse and continued on to Porte de Versailles. Along the way I thought to myself that I will have to return to my new favorite city as it is nearly impossible to see it all in just five days. (or should I be so moved… I’ll take a weekend here from Nice)
I met up with Beatirce (who is beautiful in many, many ways) and we set off to explore the Salon d’Agriculture… For those foodies among you, this was like entering the National Restaurant Association Show, however on a MUCH larger scale… it was international with an entire building devoted to foods from various regions of France alone…. One building housed international food; one for livestock and multiple floors for botany and energy efficiency in farming. Beatirce explained and translated for me tirelessly. She is a ROCK STAR in my book and deserves so much more than thanks for being my guide, my translator and someone to talk to. We stopped at a stall where a very exuberant man was offering samples of foie gras on a small torn piece of baguette…. it was so silky, so creamy and so flavorful… I audibly swooned and groaned with pleasure. Unlike any I have ever had and far superior than any foie gras available in the states. Beartice pointed out that this vendor has won MULTIPLE awards for having the best and being the best. It says something for doing one thing and doing it well. There was this guy shucking oysters and since he noticed me ogling him and his technique, he offered me one… it was, singularly, an oyster that paled in comparison to any other I have ever had. the sea water and salinity was intense and the flavor sweet and tender. I don’t know the variety… since I am not fluent in french… he may have said it and I missed it… but I thought of my old boss Chef Mark who taught me everything i know about oysters.
When we could no longer walk or tolerate the crowds… (The show is open to the public here vs. NRA which is industry only) I invited Beatrice to join me at a café for a glass of wine and she one-upped me and brought me to a delightful place called MamaShelter, recently opened and very cool…(I would have NEVER found this place not being from Paris… What a treat to have an insider) We had a very light dinner, drank some wine and talked… Beatrice …. thank you again for a wonderful day.
2/26/09
I’ll try to recreate it, but it will be brief as the hour is growing late and I am tiring…
In short (I’m sorry the first version was very descriptive….) I thought I was in line to see the Notre Dame Cathedral… OOPs… I ended up going to the top and for a person with an extreme fear of heights… it was a surprise when I stepped out of the stairwell to find myself above Paris with the most amazing views to date….I was ok… for a while until I started to become very aware of my surroundings (even more so in the bell tower) I got vertigo and decided not to go up further. I took some great photos, tho….
After I made my way to a café for a glass of wine and a light snack since I had MAJOR dinner reservations. I was seated next to a man with whom I struck up a conversation with… he originally from Cuba living in Miami… very charming and we talked for hours. It was just nice to talk to someone else who spoke english and had some common experiences as me. (he began traveling around the same time as I did and was in London and Amsterdam the same time I was, roughly.) He was so polite as to have picked up my check and asked for nothing in return… not even my email address. so.. where ever Robert is in the world now… thank you!
I did not realize the time…. and rushed my way to the Eiffel Tower…. for Dinner at Le Jules Verne….. (the french version of Charlie Trotter) I arrived…. gave my name and they had no record of my reservation. I fucked up…. My reservation was for last night… I got hot and felt tears spring to my eyes as I felt I was about to be denied one of the things I was looking forward to in Paris. I got my dates wrong. Plain and simple….. I cried and (i think they were afraid of me making a scene) they seated me anyway since I was just one….I apologized profusely for the mix up…
Ok…. For the FOODIES…(and I love you all for indulging me here)
aperitif…. rose champagne
Amuse… A bright yellow custard with a butternut squash foam, a poached scallop, toasted pecans, truffles and sea salt
(rose Champagne)
course 1…lobster poached in a court bouillon with apple and celery slaw, chervil and …what tasted like a veal glace vinaigrette
2007 Condrieu Viogneir
Jerome, my sommilier guided my wines throughout dinner (I’ll insert as I know them)
course 2… Braised endive…OMG … i think this was my favorite course… Braised endive in a natural jus reduction, butter emulsion, cheese, ham and black truffles
course 3…. Chablis made from chardonnay grapes in a Jeroboume bottle… (it was HUGE)
Turbot with tiny mushrooms, crawfish, potatoes, ham and petit croutons in a very rich brown sauce.. again, veal glace?
By course 4… I’m getting full and a bit light from all the wine, which is when I decided to take a cab back to my hotel.
course 4…. seared and slow-roasted venison… (think prime rib style) with winter vegetables and a mini pear.
the wine was a Neills St. George 2002 Pinot Noir that… honestly smelled so good I wanted to put my face in it. it was earthy… like soil, sweet, smelling of cherries, currants, smokey peppers and chocolate…. WOW what an amazing pinot noir…
Then came desserts… not one, but two… the first a Sauvrain on top of a fig compote with armanac… the second a plate of mini chocolate truffles, vanilla marshmallows, a pistachio crème with strawberry compote and oven dried strawberries and a biscuit style cookie.
With that came the addition of two ports…. one white and one red…. both Amazing. (the white was a sauterne 2006 Clos Le Compte Grand reserve 1984)
http://www.lejulesverne-paris.com/
By this time I was dizzy… wine, food coma, sheer delight …. I found my way to a taxi…and went home…. (if you can call a hotel home)
I had a great day in Paris… And I’m trying not to be sad about leaving on Sunday.
(I can’t even speak of how breathtaking 1) the Eiffel Tower is and 2) how amazing the view was from the restaurant.)
until tomorrow….
xoxox
At this point I’m so happy, I want to do a HAPPY DANCE.
2/27/09
Day 13 in Paris.. .and then…
Was bright and sunny. I set off to enjoy my last full day in Paris. About 20 minutes into my walk I was sweating under the heavy sweater I had worn since London. I pulled it off and secretly wished I could have left it somewhere. All around me were people still dressed in winter coats with scarves, hats and gloves. All of which I thought was a bit odd… especially when I walked past a skating rink.
I found my self at the Opera House and realized that I was close to the Galleries Lafayette, a place my sister suggested I go to see the gourmet food section….It was beautiful… reminiscent of the one at Harrod’s. The first thing I saw was the loose spice and salt section. I couldn’t resist how beautifully it was laid out and in spite of my “self-imposed NO SHOPPING” edict I had to buy some salts… smoked, blue, red, green and black… I am very eager to use the smoked salt next time I make toffee with bacon. I did, in spite of the ban on photos, manage to take some good shots.
I was determined to eat a bit of ‘street food today’ so I started with some asian dumpling from the gourmet food store. I could not find a place to eat so I went outside to see if I could find some tiny corner where I could eat my snacks undisturbed. They were yummy….the ravoli du porc, had a very delicate ginger flavor and the other one (I forget what is was… beef something) but also very good especially with the hot sauce that came with them. I had just put the last bite in my mouth when a woman approached me begging for money or my leftovers. I had a thimble full of hot sauce and no change. I got up to walk away… and she followed me…getting a bit more aggressive. I gave her a very sharp… Madam, j dit NON and she left me alone.
Today, I was very aware of the “not so pretty side of Paris” …. The the homeless begging for a scant and spare euro, gypsies with their multiple scams (http://www.parislogue.com/travel-tips/street-scams-in-paris.html andhttp://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g187147-i14-k2281925-Street_scams_in_Paris_beware_of_gold_rings-Paris_Ile_de_France.html)
Among others I have seen. The young girl asking you speak English, claiming to be from Bosnia and needing money to return. I guess because it was a Saturday I was intensely aware of my surroundings and those close to me. Every bump, brush past and close encounter made me touch my bag and hang on to the clasps. (it would have been impossible to get into my bag without me knowing)… but still… I continued on. And with each bump, or brush..I found my self more annoyed with the crowds and that tested my patience and made me more eager to either get back to my hotel or leave Paris…
I found my way to the L’arc de Triopmhe and while taking pictures I spied a bride in my lens…. She was beautiful. I quickly changed my lens and got close up…. She ws laughing with her maid of honor and could not have been more beautiful…. I approached her and I think she thought I was going to ask for directions… In my best French I told her I took some pictures and if she spoke English. What a relief… she did. So I told her that I could not resist how pretty and out-of-place she was on the Champs-Elysees and that I would e-mail her the pictures if she would give me her email…. She was tickled pink. I hope that I helped make her special day even more so….She brought a great smile to me and I wanted to return it. Once again… in the wrong line and I found myself climbing the 248 stairs to the top… where once again I was in awe if the view. I snapped a few shots and decided that I was going to walk back to my hotel…I walked more in the last two week than I think I have walked in two years….Making my way down the stairs… I am suffering from vertigo and height fear. I am in such a sweat by the time I get to the bottom.
I made a few stops on the way back…. Geurlain for a bottle of fancy French perfume that smells of lemons. To Lenotre for a fameux chocolate crème and a glass of rose champagne and a few stops to … faire de peepee… I arrived at my goal … L’aruibus, the first restaurant I went to in Paris. I told Hugo…. Je voudrais ma finis a paris ou je comencee a paris…. I wanted to end my stay in paris where I started it. I love that little restaurant. That night I had the magret du canard avec legumes de provence. And finished with the fondant au chocolate… it was a lovely way to end my love affair with the city of light.
